Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Thursday, December 8, 2011
A Christmas Getaway
As this will our last Christmas pre-kids, we've decided to head away for one last holiday. Because I've grounded myself from flying, we found a great deal at a new hotel just a two hour drive from Shanghai. It's called Naked Stable Private Reserve. And "naked" means "eco", not "nudist". Check out our digs. Nice!
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
My Top 10 Tips for Tokyo
I am just back from a week's break in the Japanese capital. I visited for the first time last year, so it was lovely to go back again. I felt I knew the subway system, the areas I liked, the places I wanted to re-visit and the food I wanted to eat again. I do love visiting new places but there's something comforting and less stressful about already knowing the ropes. You can relax a little and just go with the flow. And being almost six months pregnant, I was craving a bit of a slower pace.
So, here are my Top 10 Tips for Tokyo:
1. Invest in a Suica/Pasmo travel card. Taxis are expensive but the subway and JR railway system is exhaustive, super clean and super efficient. Last year we had a Japan Rail Pass as we were visiting other parts of Japan. This entitles you to travel on the JR line. This year, we were sticking to Tokyo, so I just used the Tokyo subway system and my Suica pass. You can top it up as you need and swipe in and out at the barriers.
2. Bring your appetite. Tokyo is my idea of food heaven. I love love love Japanese food. I technically couldn't eat sushi or sashimi on this trip, although I did slip on one occasion. (They killed the fish in front of me -- you can't get fresher than that!) But there are plenty of other options than raw seafood. Tempura, yakitori, ramen, tonkatsu, takoyaki. Get in there.
3. Keep your eyes peeled. For me, Tokyo's street life is one of its most interesting attractions. I just love all the fashions you see on the street. On one train carriage you can see a suited businessman next to a Harajuku girl sitting beside a lady in a kimono, a hip teenager and an older woman in Issey Miyake. I just love the diversity.
4. Get used to wacky addresses. One of the most difficult things about navigating this city is that addresses are written in a far different way to what we may be used to. See this video for an understanding:
I find it best to do a little bit of homework before I hit the city for the day. You certainly don't want to walk around with a map and a Lonely Planet guide and look like a tourist! Be cool. I have an idea of where I'd like to eat or shop and I look up online for some specific directions on how to get to that place (what subway exit to use, how far I should walk, landmarks, etc). A good site for foodies to bookmark is http://www.bento.com. You can search by area or cuisine and they handily provide maps and pictures of the exteriors of restaurants. It's a lifesaver. Sometimes I make reservations (get your hotel concierge to do this), sometimes I don't.
5. Just do it. See what I said about doing research in point 4. Well, sometimes you need to just throw caution to the wind. If you see a restaurant or eatery that looks good and has a menu and a vibe that appeals, don't think twice. Walk in, ask for a table and get eating.
6. Lower your expectations on hotel room size. Japan doesn't have much land. Therefore their hotel rooms are small. And by small, I mean tiny. Last year we stayed in Shinjuku (see here) and our room was compact but reasonable. This year, we stayed in Ginza (see here - and don't let the pictures fool you!). I swear if we swung a cat in that room, it would have been black and blue and bruised all over. We seriously couldn't even open our carry-on suitcases. It was tight. But it was clean and in a fabulous location. If you want to enjoy your hotel room, you will need to pay more. A lot more. But if you want to explore the city during the day and simply sleep at night, be prepared to sacrifice space.
7. Explore as many different areas as possible. Tokyo's neighbourhoods all have their own flavour. Shibuya is loud, fast and in-your-face, Harajuku is quirky, Ometasando is fashionable and busy, Aoyama is quiet and chic, Ginza is stylish, Naka-Meguro is chilled, Akasaka is easy to navigate with an appetite, Ebisu will quench your thirst and Maranouchi is upscale and refined.
8. Indulge in some culture. And not just pop culture. My favourites: Nezu Museum in Aoyama (as much for their beautiful gardens as their exhibitions) and Mori Tower in Roppongi for the Art Museum and Observation Tower.
9. Allow an hour or more to get to or from the airport. This time we caught both methods of public transport from Narita airport - we caught an airport limousine bus directly to our hotel and on the return journey, we caught the NEX express train. Both are good. But I prefer the limo bus as there's less mucking around with bags, escalators and stairs.
10. Bring your wallet. Tokyo is expensive!
Next time, I'll post all the details about where we ate.
So, here are my Top 10 Tips for Tokyo:
1. Invest in a Suica/Pasmo travel card. Taxis are expensive but the subway and JR railway system is exhaustive, super clean and super efficient. Last year we had a Japan Rail Pass as we were visiting other parts of Japan. This entitles you to travel on the JR line. This year, we were sticking to Tokyo, so I just used the Tokyo subway system and my Suica pass. You can top it up as you need and swipe in and out at the barriers.
2. Bring your appetite. Tokyo is my idea of food heaven. I love love love Japanese food. I technically couldn't eat sushi or sashimi on this trip, although I did slip on one occasion. (They killed the fish in front of me -- you can't get fresher than that!) But there are plenty of other options than raw seafood. Tempura, yakitori, ramen, tonkatsu, takoyaki. Get in there.
3. Keep your eyes peeled. For me, Tokyo's street life is one of its most interesting attractions. I just love all the fashions you see on the street. On one train carriage you can see a suited businessman next to a Harajuku girl sitting beside a lady in a kimono, a hip teenager and an older woman in Issey Miyake. I just love the diversity.
4. Get used to wacky addresses. One of the most difficult things about navigating this city is that addresses are written in a far different way to what we may be used to. See this video for an understanding:
I find it best to do a little bit of homework before I hit the city for the day. You certainly don't want to walk around with a map and a Lonely Planet guide and look like a tourist! Be cool. I have an idea of where I'd like to eat or shop and I look up online for some specific directions on how to get to that place (what subway exit to use, how far I should walk, landmarks, etc). A good site for foodies to bookmark is http://www.bento.com. You can search by area or cuisine and they handily provide maps and pictures of the exteriors of restaurants. It's a lifesaver. Sometimes I make reservations (get your hotel concierge to do this), sometimes I don't.
5. Just do it. See what I said about doing research in point 4. Well, sometimes you need to just throw caution to the wind. If you see a restaurant or eatery that looks good and has a menu and a vibe that appeals, don't think twice. Walk in, ask for a table and get eating.
6. Lower your expectations on hotel room size. Japan doesn't have much land. Therefore their hotel rooms are small. And by small, I mean tiny. Last year we stayed in Shinjuku (see here) and our room was compact but reasonable. This year, we stayed in Ginza (see here - and don't let the pictures fool you!). I swear if we swung a cat in that room, it would have been black and blue and bruised all over. We seriously couldn't even open our carry-on suitcases. It was tight. But it was clean and in a fabulous location. If you want to enjoy your hotel room, you will need to pay more. A lot more. But if you want to explore the city during the day and simply sleep at night, be prepared to sacrifice space.
7. Explore as many different areas as possible. Tokyo's neighbourhoods all have their own flavour. Shibuya is loud, fast and in-your-face, Harajuku is quirky, Ometasando is fashionable and busy, Aoyama is quiet and chic, Ginza is stylish, Naka-Meguro is chilled, Akasaka is easy to navigate with an appetite, Ebisu will quench your thirst and Maranouchi is upscale and refined.
8. Indulge in some culture. And not just pop culture. My favourites: Nezu Museum in Aoyama (as much for their beautiful gardens as their exhibitions) and Mori Tower in Roppongi for the Art Museum and Observation Tower.
9. Allow an hour or more to get to or from the airport. This time we caught both methods of public transport from Narita airport - we caught an airport limousine bus directly to our hotel and on the return journey, we caught the NEX express train. Both are good. But I prefer the limo bus as there's less mucking around with bags, escalators and stairs.
10. Bring your wallet. Tokyo is expensive!
Next time, I'll post all the details about where we ate.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
My top 20 favourite Asian dishes
A big part of travelling and living abroad is indulging in local food. Eating and remembering certain tastes from different countries is a critical part of travelling and exploring another culture. I've barely scratched the surface in China (note to self: need to travel more) - or Asia for that matter - but I've certainly accumulated a long list of favourite dishes. I don't cook any of these myself, it's strictly food I order out. In no particular order, here are the top 20 Asian dishes I can't live without...
These soup-filled dumplings are a Shanghai specialty, however I first tried them at a Singapore branch of Din Tai Fung, a Taiwanese chain who are known for their xialongbao. I could eat these every week. And I do! You dip the whole dumpling in ginger and soy, bite off the beautifully folded top to let the heat escape and then let the broth and meat (pork, shrimp) do their work.
2. Kare-pan (Japan)
I dream of this snack and haven't found a good one in Shanghai (yet)! Otherwise known as a Japanese curry doughnut or a curry bun, I first tried kare-pan at my local supermarket in Singapore, Isetan, a Japanese-owned store and then ate a couple (or more) when in Japan last year. They're always for sale in the Isetan bakery upfront, but a few times a year, Isetan hold regional food fairs, including a stall that made kare-pan to order!! I'm salivating just thinking about it -- Japanese curry (not to be confused with Indian curry) surrounded by dough and covered in panko crumbs then deep fried. It's so naughty, but it's worth every calorie. I cannot tell you how good it tastes. A lot of bakeries bake the doughnut rather than deep frying, but it's a pale imitation. Accept no substitutes!!
I dream of this snack and haven't found a good one in Shanghai (yet)! Otherwise known as a Japanese curry doughnut or a curry bun, I first tried kare-pan at my local supermarket in Singapore, Isetan, a Japanese-owned store and then ate a couple (or more) when in Japan last year. They're always for sale in the Isetan bakery upfront, but a few times a year, Isetan hold regional food fairs, including a stall that made kare-pan to order!! I'm salivating just thinking about it -- Japanese curry (not to be confused with Indian curry) surrounded by dough and covered in panko crumbs then deep fried. It's so naughty, but it's worth every calorie. I cannot tell you how good it tastes. A lot of bakeries bake the doughnut rather than deep frying, but it's a pale imitation. Accept no substitutes!!
This has to be one of the best hangover dishes of all time. It's a Singaporean invention and is a fried flour-based pancake served with an accompanying bowl of meat or vege curry. You can have the bread plain or you can load it up with cheese, onions, mushrooms, whatever you fancy. You tear the bread into pieces, dunk it in the curry and try not to burn your hands or tongue as you chomp away. I often see a sweet variation in Thailand at roadside stalls with nutella, chocolate, bananas or peanuts. Also amazing.
4. Bulgogi and Banchan (Korea)
Bulgogi is a marinated and barbecued meat (beef, pork or chicken) and banchan are the side dishes that accompany it. I love this dish and usually order the pork. I first started eating this in Sydney when a local Korean restaurant opened up the road from my office and it became a much-loved lunch spot for the gang. Equally important is the array of side dishes that come with the sizzling hotplate. Lots of pickled and marinated veges (kongnamul which is a pickled bean sprout dish is my fave), dried fish, kimchi and heaps more.
4. Bulgogi and Banchan (Korea)
Bulgogi is a marinated and barbecued meat (beef, pork or chicken) and banchan are the side dishes that accompany it. I love this dish and usually order the pork. I first started eating this in Sydney when a local Korean restaurant opened up the road from my office and it became a much-loved lunch spot for the gang. Equally important is the array of side dishes that come with the sizzling hotplate. Lots of pickled and marinated veges (kongnamul which is a pickled bean sprout dish is my fave), dried fish, kimchi and heaps more.
5. Banh xeo (Vietnam)
I haven't had this recently, but this is one of my favourite Vietnamese dishes. I remember eating this savoury crepe filled with prawns, pork and bean sprouts for breakfast each morning of our honeymoon at Evason Ana Mandara in Nha Trang. The best bit is when you dip the pancake into a special fermented soy bean sauce. It's so fresh and tasty.
6. Banh mi (Vietnam)
6. Banh mi (Vietnam)
I spoke about this Vietnamese-style sandwich already on my blog. Read it here. I could eat this for lunch every day. In fact, I used to when I worked in Sydney around the corner from Little Devil. Although I think they added a bit of MSG as I was always so thirsty by about 3pm every day! This one (pictured left) is from B Real in Shanghai and is fantastic.
I really got into this dish properly when I lived in London and used to visit Chinatown a lot. The combination of duck meat, duck skin, hoisin sauce, spring onions and pancake is magic. It's been a while since I've had a great version, but I'm travelling to Beijing soon and am going to go hell for leather.
8. Tom Yum Goong (Thailand)
This soup is one of my favourite Thai dishes. It is the perfect combination of spicy, sour and fragrant. I once learned how to cook this at a cooking school in Chiang Mai, but it was over ten years ago and I've never attempted it since. The best version I've ever had was on a press trip at the Phulay Bay Ritz Carlton Reserve in Krabi. It was super spicy, but also perfectly sour. But then again, I've had some pretty great versions from cheap roadside stalls in Bangkok to takeaway restaurants all over the world.
9. Takoyaki (Japan)
Another fabulous Japanese snack. This is one of my all-time faves. It's a deep fried octopus (or prawn) surrounded by batter and lathered in takoyaki sauce, mayonnaise and dried bonito flakes. This isn't a restaurant dish, you'll usually find it in roadside kiosks or food halls and it's a stand-up stack. Poke into it with a stick and eat away. But beware: these balls are HOT. Don't pop a just-cooked whole one in your mouth or you may get third degree burns. But if you have the patience for it to cool down a bit, go for it!
10. Pad Thai (Thailand)
It's a classic, but for a reason. The combo of noodles, peanuts, spring onions, chili, lime is killer. But for all the fancy ones I've tasted, I still think a 20 baht roadside stall dish I tasted ten years ago comes up trumps.
It's a classic, but for a reason. The combo of noodles, peanuts, spring onions, chili, lime is killer. But for all the fancy ones I've tasted, I still think a 20 baht roadside stall dish I tasted ten years ago comes up trumps.
This is traditionally grilled chicken on a stick and cooked in front of you over charcoal. But it can also refer to any type of food on a skewer, not just chicken. Think beef, scallops, pork belly, mushrooms; you name it. It's one of my favourite Japanese foods. One of the best spots I've been to was a place called Kushiwakamaru in Tokyo's Naka-Meguro neighbourhood. It's been open for over 30 years and often has big queues.We got there early and got in straight away. The food and ambience were fantastic.
Yum. This is known as a Japanese 'pizza' but I don't really get that description as it's more like a savoury pancake filled with prawns and spring onions and doused in sauce, mayonnaise and bonito flakes. Divine. One of the more memorable versions of this was when we were in Kyoto and we ate at a grill-your-own place and cooked it ourself on a hotplate at our table.
13. Tonkatsu / Katsudon (Japan)
This deep fried pork cutlet can come on its own with a side serve of cabbage and sesame seed dip (tonkatsu, left). Or you can whack the cutlet on top of a bowl of rice and cover it with egg and spring onions (right). Both are delicious.
13. Tonkatsu / Katsudon (Japan)This deep fried pork cutlet can come on its own with a side serve of cabbage and sesame seed dip (tonkatsu, left). Or you can whack the cutlet on top of a bowl of rice and cover it with egg and spring onions (right). Both are delicious.
14. Pho (Vietnam)There's conjecture over how to pronounce this, I was told 'feh' or 'fer' by locals in Vietnam. All I know is it's not 'foe'. Nevertheless this is one fragrant and filling dish consisting of a hearty meat-based broth with noodles plus slices of beef, sprouts, herbs, chili, soy, chili sauce, fish sauce, more herbs, whatever you want to keep adding really. This was a favourite lunch time staple when I worked in Chinatown in Singapore. Healthy and delicious.
Rice paper rolls filled with prawns, noodles and herbs. Simple, fresh, fragrant, tasty. Dip it in the accompanying sauce and enjoy. I have made these myself before and they're actually really easy. I went through a phase of having these for lunch every day. Yes, I am a creature of habit.
16. Agedashi dofu (Japan)
16. Agedashi dofu (Japan)
Yum. Silken tofu covered in cornstarch and deep fried then covered in a beautiful broth (dashi, mirin, sho-yu) and served with spring onions, bonito flakes and daikon. This is a perfect side dish. The taste is just so clean and crisp. Although I do need to work on my chopstick technique with this dish. The cubes always slide all over the shop! But it always tastes good.
17. Massaman curry (Thailand)
This southern Thai dish has Muslim origins and is one of my favourite dishes of all time. I remember eating a sensational version of this dish in Kanchanaburi (near the River Kwai) when I was backpacking a decade ago. The combination of beef (or duck), coconut milk, cashews, potatoes and spices such as cardamon, star anise and cinnamon is just beautiful. I almost always order this when I spot it on the menu.
18. Ramen (Japan)
This Japanese noodle dish can have lots of variations, but essentially it's a meat-based broth with noodles and vegetables plus meat. I usually love pork slices or pork belly the best. And sometimes corn. In Singapore, we used to eat at Ippudo in the Mandarin Gallery a lot. A pint of Asahi, a bowl of ramen, a side of gyoza and pork buns. Heaven.
17. Massaman curry (Thailand)
This southern Thai dish has Muslim origins and is one of my favourite dishes of all time. I remember eating a sensational version of this dish in Kanchanaburi (near the River Kwai) when I was backpacking a decade ago. The combination of beef (or duck), coconut milk, cashews, potatoes and spices such as cardamon, star anise and cinnamon is just beautiful. I almost always order this when I spot it on the menu.
18. Ramen (Japan)
This Japanese noodle dish can have lots of variations, but essentially it's a meat-based broth with noodles and vegetables plus meat. I usually love pork slices or pork belly the best. And sometimes corn. In Singapore, we used to eat at Ippudo in the Mandarin Gallery a lot. A pint of Asahi, a bowl of ramen, a side of gyoza and pork buns. Heaven.
A spice noodle soup from the Peranakan culture (a mix of Malay and Chinese), I used to eat this regularly when living in Singapore. People say you shouldn't (cos it could cause a stomach upset) but I always asked for cockles to be added. They're just too good. The salty seafood taste makes this dish even more delicious.
20. Cha siu bao (China)
20. Cha siu bao (China)
I'm not actually that big a fan of yum cha / dim sum as I find so many of the dishes to be very greasy, but I do love a BBQ pork bun.
Also on my radar:
Also on my radar:
1. Satay - what's not to love about peanut sauce?
2. Sushi and sashimi (Japan) I'm a big seafood fan, so sushi always hits the spot with me
3. Gyoza (Japan) Love these potsticker dumplings.
4. Bibimbap (Korea) - This is always a winner. Especially that bottom crust.
5. Chili Crab (Singapore) - a lot of mess for little reward but that sauce is fantastic
6. Larb (Thailand) and Papaya salad (Thailand) - spicy, healthy salads
7. Rendang (Indonesia) - I've not yet been to Indonesia so I can't properly add this yet.
8. Green curry, red curry (Thailand) - love them
9. Hainanese Chicken rice (Singapore) - please don't hate me, but I don't love it, I only like it
10. Cold soba noodles (Japan) - the perfect, healthy dish; noodles, dipping sauce, a quail egg, seaweed, wasabi. Yum.
2. Sushi and sashimi (Japan) I'm a big seafood fan, so sushi always hits the spot with me
3. Gyoza (Japan) Love these potsticker dumplings.
4. Bibimbap (Korea) - This is always a winner. Especially that bottom crust.
5. Chili Crab (Singapore) - a lot of mess for little reward but that sauce is fantastic
6. Larb (Thailand) and Papaya salad (Thailand) - spicy, healthy salads
7. Rendang (Indonesia) - I've not yet been to Indonesia so I can't properly add this yet.
8. Green curry, red curry (Thailand) - love them
9. Hainanese Chicken rice (Singapore) - please don't hate me, but I don't love it, I only like it
10. Cold soba noodles (Japan) - the perfect, healthy dish; noodles, dipping sauce, a quail egg, seaweed, wasabi. Yum.
Monday, July 4, 2011
My Top 15 Travel Tips and Tricks
Because I travel a lot, I'm often asked for advice on my tips and tricks for bagging a good deal. Here are my top tips.
1. There's a difference between "travelling" and "holidaying". Make sure you know what you want. If you are in need of rest and relaxation, don't book an eight-day, three-city budget break with multiple transfers and connections.You'll come back exhausted. If you're only using your hotel to lay your head after a long day pounding the pavements, book somewhere clean, central and cheap. My rule: only spend more on your accommodation if you plan to enjoy it.
2. Map out your year and identify the times you'd like to travel. If you don't have a lot of holiday leave days, use the public holidays to your advantage. But book well in advance so you don't pay over the odds. On the flipside, take a holiday at short notice. You can always find last-minute hotel and flight deals. Also look at when the best time is to travel, i.e. high season versus low season. Sometimes the first or last week of low season can bag you a bargain.
3. Shop around for travel deals. I have favourite websites for everything from airline tickets to hotel reservations. Shop around for the best deal, not the lowest room rate, i.e. inclusions such as free wi-fi and breakfast make a big difference. Perhaps find a price on Agoda and email the hotel to see if they'll match or better the deal. If you don't ask, you don't get. When booking your flight, pay attention to airline baggage restrictions and arrival/departure times. A 5am flight might be $50 cheaper than the midday flight, but you might have to get an expensive taxi instead of a train. Weigh up the costs and convenience.
www.momondo.com The best site for comparing flights. You can search by time, duration, stopovers.
www.ctrip.com For China flights. And they'll deliver tickets to your door for cash payment (if you don't want to use your credit card) within two hours.
www.agoda.com My favourite site for cheap hotel deals and checking out hotel pictures easily.
www.tripadvisor.com See what other travellers think of a hotel, but beware of whingers.
www.kayak.com Compare deals across multiple booking websites
www.seatguru.com Pick the best seat when you check-in
www.evernote.com Keep all your clippings here and access via your iPhone when you're in situ
www.tripit.com An excellent resource for storing all your travel details and reference numbers. You can email your email confirmations and it will collate automatically and sync with your iPhone.
And join mailings lists, for updated deals (Agoda, Trip Advisor and individual airlines). When I lived in Singapore, I would book cheap flights ahead of time. It's also something for you to look forward to. I once got an email alert, and booked a return flight to Siem Reap in Cambodia for $10 return.
4. Read up-to-date information. Newspaper travel sections, in-flight magazines, travel and food magazines, travel and food blogs often have more current info than guide books. That said, I always take a small guide book with me. Wallpaper Guides are my favourite. I like their maps and their breakdown of a city by area, plus their suggestions suit my interests. Luxe Guides complement the Wallpaper guide well as they often cover the same areas (so you can cross-reference) but also provide addresses in the local language. I also pick up a fold-up city map from the Tourist office in the arrivals hall and pop it in my day bag for the duration of my trip. Lonely Planet Encounters books can be good, although I avoid the larger Lonely Planet guides as they tend to be too heavy and focus on the low-budget and long-term traveller scene. My backpacking days are over.
5. Use your iPhone, iPad, laptop and free wi-fi. Load up your gadget with apps such as Trip It, Evernote, iTranslate, dictionaries, metro maps, city maps, etc. Technology can really assist if used correctly. And it's much lighter! But turn off your global roaming to avoid RIDICULOUS bills.
6. Don't go overboard with planning your itinerary to the minute. Have an idea of the things you want to do and the areas that appeal, but don't kill spontaneity with schedule. That said, you do need to create spontaneity by making sure you're exploring the right parts of the city, i.e. specific streets, neighbourhoods, restaurants, bars. Make a list and each morning (or the evening before) figure out what fits your mood. But if an area, street, gallery or museum is disappointing or not tickling your fancy, ditch it, jump in a cab or hop on the train and pick a new area. Make restaurant bookings in advance (email a few weeks ahead if it's a popular spot) or ask your hotel in the morning to book for you for the night. Or simply follow your nose and chance it.
7. Be true to your interests. If you're not into history or art galleries or science museums, don't visit them. Likewise, if you don't like shopping or dining out (we can never be friends by the way!) stick to what you do enjoy. Just because you're in a new city doesn't mean you have to change your personality.
8. Don't forget the details. Travel insurance, a spare credit card, enough local currency to get you a taxi to your hotel, etc. Personally, I prefer to use a credit card at restaurants and shops (hooked to the day's exchange rate) as it saves me from changing too much cash. That said, not everywhere accepts credit cards so do have local currency on you.
9. Have a plan for your first night. It's easy to arrive late to a city and decide to "stay in". It's a mistake. If you land at 5pm, make a dinner booking at a restaurant for 9pm. It will give you a purpose and a plan. So get to your hotel, check-in, unpack, have a shower and get out to a nearby bar for a pre-dinner drink by 8:30. It can be a local dive or a fancy five-star affair. Just make sure that it has an authentic excitement factor, i.e. a killer view of Hong Kong harbour, a busy and theatrical izakaya in Tokyo, a view of The Bund in Shanghai. It's a great way to start a holiday.
10. Get your bearings. Often the best way to quickly get acquainted with a new city is to take an open-top bus tour. I find this a time-effective and cost-effective way of discovering the scale of a city. Sit on the bus for the whole ride with your map in hand and get an overall feeling for the city and its neighbourhood. Choose the areas that most appeal and explore them in more detail on your time.
11. Travel light. I usually only travel with a carry-on suitcase and an oversized handbag. Scarves and earrings are your friends. Shoes and full-size toiletries are your enemies. One trick is to put your toiletries in your handbag. Most airlines allow you a "laptop bag" and do not define or weigh "handbags/purses", so use this to your advantage. I use a Longchamp large tote as it looks smart and is very practical both on the flight and as a day bag. It fits snugly at my feet on the plane and can fit a laptop, my wallet, iPod, camera, noise-cancelling headphones plus my toiletry and cosmetics. I separate the liquids into a clear bag (travel-size deoderant, moisturiser, hair conditioner, perfume, foundation) so I can easily throw them through the x-ray. If I do get an overly officious check-in assistant who weighs my handbag, I just check-in my roll-on case and carry my tote. Buy magazines and books after you check-in so they don't get weighed.
12. Invest in quality luggage: mine's an expandable Samsonite that rolls on four wheels, so I can roll it in front of me or behind with one hand. And if I do shop on a trip, I can expand it and check it in on the return flight. If you know you're going to shop for heavy or bulky items, take a bigger suitcase, but don't overpack to begin with. Likewise, if you have bulky winter gear and need more space, take a bigger suitcase, but don't fill the space just because it's there. Also buy a good toiletry bag with compartments and a hook (to hang in the bathroom) and some two-sided packing cells which are particularly handy for keeping clothes and underwear together. Separate clean from dirty as you travel.
13. Learn some key phrases. At the very least, learn to say hello, please and thank-you in the local language. It shows that you have made an effort.
14. Splash Out. Be organised, but be creative and open-minded. Travel is about enjoying new experiences. Splash out in some areas but batten down the hatches in others. It's no use spending a lot of money on airfares and hotels but then scrimping on activities. Just think: it will cost you a LOT more money to return and eat at that restaurant, drink that cocktail or go to that observation deck because you're being thrifty. Be generous with yourself.
15. Create memories. Photos are great, but create more memories. Buy a fragrance at duty-free on departure, then use it during your trip. Once you're back home, every time you smell that fragrance you'll be reminded of your happy memories of that trip. The same with music: listen to a new album while in transit. And don't buy a lot of souvenirs; buy something small, simple and practical. For example, we bought a globe and cushion covers in Tokyo, some tea cups in New York, a wine stop in Taipei and drink coasters in Seoul. We bought some ceramic bowls in Vietnam from the hotel gift shop. They were the same bowls we ate our breakfast from each day. Now every morning as I eat my cereal, I'm reminded of my honeymoon.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
An appetite for Hong Kong
On our recent trip to Hong Kong we hit up a few different restaurants and eateries.
On Saturday night, I nabbed two seats at Liberty Private Works. It used to be a test kitchen for the Liberty Exchange restaurant, but now it's a stand-alone restaurant. With only 15 seats at the chef's counter with a set eight-course menu, you're in Canadian executive chef Vicky Cheng's hands. Having worked in Toronto and New York (under Daniel Boulud and Jean-George Vongerichten) before moving to Hong Kong, he knows his stuff.
This was one filling meal! The menu is changed every month and consists of eight courses, plus two amuse bouches and a petit four. And there was no scrimping on the serving size nor the quality of ingredients - caviar, truffles, fois gras. At HK$1400 for two people, it was pretty great value. And even better, it was BYO!
With just one waiter, two sous chefs and 15 guests, the mood was intimate and very relaxed. And actually very theatrical. We watched each dish being plated. Some of the dishes took so long to plate up that I was almost sorry to eat them. I'm glad I did though. There were some pretty amazing flavours on offer.
Chef Vicky Cheng stands in front of the blackboard that gave a simplistic teaser for the ingredients in each course.
The amuse bouche. The one on the far right was my favourite: a fiery bite of pomelo, lobster and chili.
The second course was abalone with white asparagus and leeks. Very tasty.
I loved this third course. The stick-thin model seated next to me asked for the creamy parmesan foam to be left off the plate. (WTF?!) It was rich, but man oh man. Yum. Whole egg ravioli with truffles and caviar. Heaven.
Grouper with crab, chili and lemon. I'm having trouble remembering this course but I do recall that the lemon sauce was very tart and lifted the dish considerably.
Then the rich ingredients really started coming thick and fast. Duck with a fois gras foam. I loved this.
I loved the next course too, but was fit to bursting by this stage. The presentation was very whimsical, what with a daikon pretending to be a bone (back right) and filled with slow-braised oxtail.
This dessert was a surprise package. The blackboard said "coconut, pineapple, hazelnut and rum". If I hadn't watched this plated up in front of me, I wouldn't have known what to expect. But hidden under that coconut foam was roasted pineapple with hazelnuts. It tasted exactly like a Coconut Rough, a chocolate I often ate as a kid, but Chef Chen had never heard of it. I told him to run out and buy one when he was next in Australia.
And who doesn't love a chocolate fondant with vanilla ice-cream? This was elevated a notch with caramel and smoked salt. A. Ma. Zing. Sweet and deliciously salty at the same time.
Then I rolled home and fasted for a month. Not.
Ricotta and spinach ravioli with a burnt butter sauce with sage and walnuts. Come to mama.
Delicious lasagne! So cheesy.
I love the Virginia Woolf quote they have on their fabric bags: "One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well." Amen to that.
On Saturday night, I nabbed two seats at Liberty Private Works. It used to be a test kitchen for the Liberty Exchange restaurant, but now it's a stand-alone restaurant. With only 15 seats at the chef's counter with a set eight-course menu, you're in Canadian executive chef Vicky Cheng's hands. Having worked in Toronto and New York (under Daniel Boulud and Jean-George Vongerichten) before moving to Hong Kong, he knows his stuff.
This was one filling meal! The menu is changed every month and consists of eight courses, plus two amuse bouches and a petit four. And there was no scrimping on the serving size nor the quality of ingredients - caviar, truffles, fois gras. At HK$1400 for two people, it was pretty great value. And even better, it was BYO!
With just one waiter, two sous chefs and 15 guests, the mood was intimate and very relaxed. And actually very theatrical. We watched each dish being plated. Some of the dishes took so long to plate up that I was almost sorry to eat them. I'm glad I did though. There were some pretty amazing flavours on offer.
Chef Vicky Cheng stands in front of the blackboard that gave a simplistic teaser for the ingredients in each course.
The amuse bouche. The one on the far right was my favourite: a fiery bite of pomelo, lobster and chili.
The first course was delicious. Raw tuna with radishes and caviar surrounded by dehydrated rice (a texture not unlike some fancy Rice Bubbles) which added a crunch. To the far right is a fruit I'd never encountered before, called a bayberry, which acted as a palate cleanser. It was like a blackberry mixed with a boysenberry and strawberry. Delicious.
The second course was abalone with white asparagus and leeks. Very tasty.
I loved this third course. The stick-thin model seated next to me asked for the creamy parmesan foam to be left off the plate. (WTF?!) It was rich, but man oh man. Yum. Whole egg ravioli with truffles and caviar. Heaven.
Grouper with crab, chili and lemon. I'm having trouble remembering this course but I do recall that the lemon sauce was very tart and lifted the dish considerably.
Then the rich ingredients really started coming thick and fast. Duck with a fois gras foam. I loved this.
I loved the next course too, but was fit to bursting by this stage. The presentation was very whimsical, what with a daikon pretending to be a bone (back right) and filled with slow-braised oxtail.
This dessert was a surprise package. The blackboard said "coconut, pineapple, hazelnut and rum". If I hadn't watched this plated up in front of me, I wouldn't have known what to expect. But hidden under that coconut foam was roasted pineapple with hazelnuts. It tasted exactly like a Coconut Rough, a chocolate I often ate as a kid, but Chef Chen had never heard of it. I told him to run out and buy one when he was next in Australia.
And who doesn't love a chocolate fondant with vanilla ice-cream? This was elevated a notch with caramel and smoked salt. A. Ma. Zing. Sweet and deliciously salty at the same time.
Then I rolled home and fasted for a month. Not.
FIND IT:
Liberty Private Works
3/F 12 Wellington Street, Central
Tel: +852 5186 3282
As it was close by our hotel, we visited Classified Cheese Shop twice. It's a great spot to park for a while and sip wine, nibble on cheese or order something more substantial. And it's always packed. You can sit inside or outside (curiously, due to local regulations the staff cannot serve customers outside so you need to pop inside and pick up your wine and plated meals). I prefer sitting outside. It's a lovely spot when the sun is shining and the wine is flowing.
Ricotta and spinach ravioli with a burnt butter sauce with sage and walnuts. Come to mama.
Delicious lasagne! So cheesy.
I love the Virginia Woolf quote they have on their fabric bags: "One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well." Amen to that.
We only had a snack the first day. Goat's cheese and radicchio salad.
FIND IT:
Classified (Sheung Wan)
108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
T 852-2525 3454 F 852-2525 3455
T 852-2525 3454 F 852-2525 3455
I also ate a great woodfired pizza at 208 Duecento Otto (just around the corner from Classified).
My favourite pizza: Diavola but with ricotta instead of mozzarella.
FIND IT:
208 Duecento Otto
208 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan
Tel: 2549 0208
Saturday morning, we caught a taxi to the seaside town of Stanley for brunch/early lunch. We ate at Rocksalt which is right on the promenade next to the markets.
I'm going to try to make this salad at home. It was so tasty and healthy. Beetroot cured salmon with mixed greens and a quail egg.
FIND IT:
Rocksalt
25 Stanley Market Road
Tel: +856 2899 0818
A weekend in Hong Kong with a new camera
I was recently in Hong Kong for a few days, tagging along on another business trip. With Shanghai prices higher due to luxury taxes, I took the opportunity to buy a new camera. I've had an SLR in the past and while I love the pics, I find the camera too damn heavy to take anywhere, so I always left it behind in favour of a point and shoot.
There is sooooo much choice now when it comes to cameras (point and shoots, micro four thirds, DSLRs) and after much research and indecision, I settled on a Sony NEX-5. I initially wanted the Olympus Pen EPL-2 or the Panasonic Lumix GF2, but in the end, the Sony NEX-5 won me over with its usability and intuitive menus. By the time I charged up the battery, I only really had a day to give the kit lenses a whirl, so I'm looking forward to buying more lenses and seeing what this puppy can really do. Here's some snaps I took in our last day in Sheung Wan, Mid-Levels and Hollywood Road.
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