Wednesday, November 9, 2011

My Top 10 Tips for Tokyo

I am just back from a week's break in the Japanese capital. I visited for the first time last year, so it was lovely to go back again. I felt I knew the subway system, the areas I liked, the places I wanted to re-visit and the food I wanted to eat again. I do love visiting new places but there's something comforting and less stressful about already knowing the ropes. You can relax a little and just go with the flow. And being almost six months pregnant, I was craving a bit of a slower pace.

So, here are my Top 10 Tips for Tokyo:

1. Invest in a Suica/Pasmo travel card. Taxis are expensive but the subway and JR railway system is exhaustive, super clean and super efficient. Last year we had a Japan Rail Pass as we were visiting other parts of Japan. This entitles you to travel on the JR line. This year, we were sticking to Tokyo, so I just used the Tokyo subway system and my Suica pass. You can top it up as you need and swipe in and out at the barriers.

2. Bring your appetite. Tokyo is my idea of food heaven. I love love love Japanese food. I technically couldn't eat sushi or sashimi on this trip, although I did slip on one occasion. (They killed the fish in front of me -- you can't get fresher than that!) But there are plenty of other options than raw seafood. Tempura, yakitori, ramen, tonkatsu, takoyaki. Get in there.

3. Keep your eyes peeled. For me, Tokyo's street life is one of its most interesting attractions. I just love all the fashions you see on the street. On one train carriage you can see a suited businessman next to a Harajuku girl sitting beside a lady in a kimono, a hip teenager and an older woman in Issey Miyake. I just love the diversity.

4. Get used to wacky addresses. One of the most difficult things about navigating this city is that addresses are written in a far different way to what we may be used to. See this video for an understanding:

I find it best to do a little bit of homework before I hit the city for the day. You certainly don't want to walk around with a map and a Lonely Planet guide and look like a tourist! Be cool. I have an idea of where I'd like to eat or shop and I look up online for some specific directions on how to get to that place (what subway exit to use, how far I should walk, landmarks, etc). A good site for foodies to bookmark is http://www.bento.com. You can search by area or cuisine and they handily provide maps and pictures of the exteriors of restaurants. It's a lifesaver. Sometimes I make reservations (get your hotel concierge to do this), sometimes I don't.

5. Just do it. See what I said about doing research in point 4. Well, sometimes you need to just throw caution to the wind. If you see a restaurant or eatery that looks good and has a menu and a vibe that appeals, don't think twice. Walk in, ask for a table and get eating.

6. Lower your expectations on hotel room size. Japan doesn't have much land. Therefore their hotel rooms are small. And by small, I mean tiny. Last year we stayed in Shinjuku (see here) and our room was compact but reasonable. This year, we stayed in Ginza (see here - and don't let the pictures fool you!). I swear if we swung a cat in that room, it would have been black and blue and bruised all over. We seriously couldn't even open our carry-on suitcases. It was tight. But it was clean and in a fabulous location. If you want to enjoy your hotel room, you will need to pay more. A lot more. But if you want to explore the city during the day and simply sleep at night, be prepared to sacrifice space.

7. Explore as many different areas as possible. Tokyo's neighbourhoods all have their own flavour. Shibuya is loud, fast and in-your-face, Harajuku is quirky, Ometasando is fashionable and busy, Aoyama is quiet and chic, Ginza is stylish, Naka-Meguro is chilled, Akasaka is easy to navigate with an appetite, Ebisu will quench your thirst and Maranouchi is upscale and refined.

8. Indulge in some culture. And not just pop culture. My favourites: Nezu Museum in Aoyama (as much for their beautiful gardens as their exhibitions) and Mori Tower in Roppongi for the Art Museum and Observation Tower.

9. Allow an hour or more to get to or from the airport. This time we caught both methods of public transport from Narita airport - we caught an airport limousine bus directly to our hotel and on the return journey, we caught the NEX express train. Both are good. But I prefer the limo bus as there's less mucking around with bags, escalators and stairs.

10. Bring your wallet. Tokyo is expensive!

Next time, I'll post all the details about where we ate.

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